Destination Highlight: Xflats Lodge, Xcalak, Mexico
Posted by Bryce Nichols on Nov 4th 2025
Over the past few years, if you've bee paying attention to the world of flyfishing travel, you've probably heard or seen a lot from the crew at Xflats Lodge down at the bottom of the Yucatan Peninsula. There is good reason that this destination has become so popular and that reason largely revolves around the ever elusive Permit. From large ocean flat fish eating floating crabs (yep, dry flies) to large schools of fish cruising Chetumal Bay; Xflats has become known for offering anglers a uniqely prodctive experience targeting the frustrating and revered species. Combine that with the large schools of bonefish and abundant Tarpon among other species and you've got a world class fishery.
Of course, Xcalak is not a new destination to fly anglers. The energy and enthusiasm, though, of the guides and crew at Xflats is unrivaled and combined with the world class fishery is the reason we'll keep returning.
After his last hosted group to the lodge in September, Bryce broke down what it's like to spend a week at the lodge and why we enjoy it so much!
What do you fish for and what does a day look like?
PERMIT! While Xcalak is known to be a great grand slam destination, the permit fishing is what Xflats is known for. The guides are dialed, if you ask any of them their favorite fish to chase and they’ll say permit. If you are lucky enough to hit it right you may be one of the few who get to catch one on a dry fly (floating crab); a unique experience that is becoming a more consistent and viable way to move fish. Even though a lot of us are going down there for permit, the tarpon fishing always pleasantly exceeds my expectations each trip. From rolling fish on the ocean side reef to picking mangrove pockets for baby tarpon, they have it all. Mix in some snook and a few bonefish and what more can you ask for? Typically, bonefish in this part of the Yucatan are smaller (they don’t seem that small when you’re into your backing in seconds). Lately, though, we’ve been finding more and more above average fish.
On a typical day we wake up early for coffee, and at around 7AM, anglers start to meander in for breakfast. Just before 8AM the guides start rolling up to the dock and your day on the water begins. Compared to other destinations, your commute to the flats are typically short. Sometimes we’ve ran 10-15 minutes in to Chetumal Bay and we’ve also had days where we caught fish right in front of the lodge without ever firing up the motor. It’s a dialed-in and easy program. At the end of the day, most boats are back to the dock between 4-4:30PM. if a boat isn’t back by then, there’s a good chance they are out looking to complete the slam. Cocktails, cold beers, or whatever suites you are waiting when you arrive back and everyone debriefs and settles into chill mode for the evening. Dinner is usually served around 7pm.
How are the guides at Xflats?
The guides are great and full of good energy. One of the unique things with Xflats is that they run a 2 guide program. You have your main/veteran guide and then (usually) an apprentice. While the guide is up on the poling platform, the apprentice is at your side, helping to point out fish, manage line, and whatever else is needed. A lot of the times the apprentice is equally as good as the main guide when it comes to finding fish and spotting them. Some of the guides really like to wade for permit, and multiple times we’ve had it where the guide and 1 client are out wade-fishing and the apprentice is poling the 2nd angler around chasing fish. This can make for some unique opportunities to double up when the stars align.
Overall, the guides are extremely experienced and accomplished fly anglers themselves. From the first time I went down, I was impressed with camaraderie between the guides; young and old. Each morning and evening they are chatting each other up, dishing out some shit, bumping a Turtlebox, and appear to be thoroughly enjoying each other's company. Even though they are all independently contracted to Xflats you’d never know it; they act and work as a team. Anyone who has traveled much knows, that’s not always the case amongst guides.
How are the food & accommodations?
The food is fantastic and I’ve yet to have a meal where I didn’t clean the plate. From local seafood dishes to unbelievable chicken mole, you’ll be filled up and satisfied. For me, the accommodations are a welcome addition to our WRF destination travel programs. It seems like at a lot of places these days, the line between resort and lodge is blurry but at Xflats, you feel right at home. While I wouldn’t call it fancy, you will definitely be comfortable and taken care of. Each room is spacious with 2 full sized beds, bathroom, and a great patio to hang out on; not to mention the awesome artwork and local décor all around. Xflats is off the grid, and while you have water and power 24/7, the rooms’ A/C units power on around 7pm until 7am, which makes for some ideal sleeping conditions.
What is your go to rod, reel and tackle setups for this trip?
Given the emphasis on chasing permit, my Scott Sector 9wt equipped with a Hatch Iconic 9+ is my go-to setup. The Winston Air 2 Max , Orvis Helios and Sage R8 Salt rods are also fantastic options in the 8wt+ category. Anyone who has traveled with me can attest, I’m always tinkering and playing around with my saltwater fly lines. My SA Regulator Spool gets its fair share of use each trip. On that Sector 9wt my go to line is a RIO Elite Permit taper. I also really like the SA Grand Slam or RIO Flats Pro, but I think the Permit taper really makes it sing. 16lb Saltwater Leaders with 16lb tippet are the norm.
My 10wt Scott Sector is always strung up with a Hatch 9+ in the boat for those tarpon opportunities. For tarpon lines the SA Tarpon taper is one of my go to’s and the Rio Tarpon Pro Leaders are an easy start. I also always have a bonefish rod ready to go. I usually fish an 8wt, but a 7wt would be a great rod down there also. RIO or SA both make great Bonefish tapers and I always have plenty of 10-12lb. Bonefish Leaders.
How do you like to pack for a trip to Mexico?
I’m always over analyzing this, but I try to stay balanced between being prepared for everything, yet still minimalist, which is somewhat counterproductive. For all my international trips I typically have my Patagonia 100L Wheeled Duffel for my checked bag, then carry on the Fishpond Dakota Carry On and Fishpond Thunderhead Backpack.
Everywhere you travel has different rules, even within Mexico depending on the airport. With Tulum having a new international airport it makes the travel itinerary much more convenient getting down to Xcalak. The Tulum Felipe Carrillo Puerto airport is super nice, and easy to navigate. When traveling from the US to Mexico, I always carry on my fishing equipment with the exceptions of my pliers and nippers.
In my Dakota Carry On I usually have up to 7 rods (I try to pack backups for the groups), a handful of reels, and I’ll even throw in my Orvis Christmas Island booties too. One thing to note is that technically Mexico only allows you bring 4 fishing rods/reel down duty free, and in all my travels through Cancun I’ve never had any issues with what I bring. However, given how new the Tulum airport is, they play it by the book and inspected every bag we had, and collected tax on all our overages. My Fishpond Thunderhead backpack usually has a change of clothes in it (in case my checked bag goes missing), laptop, travel docs, and I usually travel with a bunch of RX Bars and Liquid IV’s. The Patagonia roller houses all my clothes for the week, first aid kits, backup fly lines, SA Launch Pad, and usually my larger fly boxes.
When flying home I typically pack the same as when I came down. We haven’t had any issues carrying on fishing rods/reels when leaving, however your flies, tippets, leaders, etc…should be put in your checked bag. Not all airports in Mexico are like this, and I’ve been caught a few times on these international trips where they’ve forced me to check my rods/reels. This is why I like to use the Fishpond Dakota and I always carry a spare TSA lock that bag in case it needs to be checked. A trick from one of our clients that I’ve learned is I’ll put AirTags in all of my bags. He had the airlines lose a bag, and they had no clue where they sent it off too, but thanks to an AirTag it was located and he got it before either was too late.
Availability & Bookings
Western Rivers is now booking anglers and hosting weeks to Xflats Lodge annually. If you, a friend of a group of angler have interest in one of our Hosted Trips or have dates in mind that you would like to travel, contact us HERE or at 801-521-6424 or Bryce@wrflyfisher.com
Upcoming Trips:
Hosted Week with Logan Griffith: April 11th-18th, 2026
Contact Logan at logan@wrflyfisher.com for more information or CLICK HERE to read more about Xflats Lodge, Mexico!
