If I’m sharing a conversation with you about Argentina fly-fishing for the first time, I’ll probably mention that initially I thought I'd go only once. That was prior to experiencing Patagonia trout fishing for the first time in the winter of 2009. We have such diverse and amazing waters for trout here in the west I saw myself looking for destinations that offered different fly-fishing opportunities more alluring. Emerald blue waters blending into a mosaic of rich shallow flats caressed by soft white sand beaches with palm trees swaying in an ocean breeze where tarpon, bonefish and permit reside seemed more attractive. I have walked tropical flats since that first trip to Argentina, but have yet to be drawn back with the same enthusiasm that Argentina has surprisingly generated. I initially grossly misjudged my preconceptions about fishing in this raw country, especially what the overall experience had to offer. That’s why I continue to return and have almost every year since my first trip in 2009. 

That first adventure I organized was at the request of an aging group of shop regulars known as the “Coffee Crew”, who for decades gathered mornings to get their fill of caffeine while they discussed past and future fishing excursions. They wanted to take one last trip together while they still could, and Argentina was at the top of their list. Serendipitously when they approached me I just happened to have recently made the acquaintance of Ron Sorensen; Argentinian and Montana guide, outfitter, and a magician with a stick in his hands. He and Diego Gaiser run Chocolate Labs Expeditions (CLE) and arrange custom fly-fishing packages out of San Martin de los Andes.

After contacting Ron, he arranged a week long itinerary in the Neuquen Province for us; home to some of Argentina’s more notable and diverse scenery, and rich trout waters situated in the heart of South America's Patagonia region and the Andes. Our trip would include fishing such lotted waters as the Rio Limay, Chimehuin, Collon Cura, and the Malleo; all iconic rivers, fished by the likes of Schweibert, Brooks, Haig-Brown, and other noteworthy flyfishers long before I would follow in their footsteps. Although I had read and seen photographs of some of these fisheries, and their impressive brown trout, little did I comprehend what I was in for, or the impact this adventure would have on my fly-fishing travels moving forward.

Before I delve into the fishing though, I must mention another Argentinian I coincidentally met, Gaia. Some of you reading this may know of her from your travels to Buenos Aires. She is impressionable. Gaia owns and operates LOL travel services out of the capital city. She enthusiastically meets, greets, transfers, and offers knowledgeable guidance while visiting this sprawling metropolis. Over the years she has saved our ass, exposed us to Buenos Aires amazing food scene, and ensured that our travels and visits to Argentina are as seamless and hospitable as possible. I’m generally not a fan of big cities, yet Buenos Aires, thanks to our connections, has become a highlight of my yearly visits. From its congenial people, the delicious culinary scene, to a well poured cappuccino in one of its endless outdoor cafes it’s a hospitable city that sets a welcoming tone prior to the fishing you are about to experience.

There are many amazing rivers, streams and spring creeks to fish in Argentina, but a river that flows through its arid raw landscape that distinguishes itself in this part of Patagonia is the legendary Rio Limay; a unique fishery that Ron’s has a certain obsession for, and it’s central to his trout fishing program. 

The Limay is an expansive piece of water that can offer a level of fishing that’s hard to comprehend when it’s on, yet it also will hand your head to you on any given day. Over the years I and those I share this river with have endured both experiences, but when the Limay is fishing well it can give you an experience and fish that will stay with you for your lifetime. From its incredibly prolific hatches, to the unique techniques Ron and his crew have developed to catch the river's big browns, it’s simply an amazing fishery.

I remember that first day on this river quite vividly. First off, the landscape it meanders through reminds me of the lower Green River in Utah; arid, red sandstone, and on first impression not exactly where you’d expect to find a trout fishery of this quality. The Limay’s size was initially simply overwhelming. Braids and side channels were largfer than many of the rivers I fish here in the west. I found its emerald waters surprisingly as clear as gin and alluring. Broken down into fishable pieces, it had that fishy character like many other trout rivers I’m familiar with. Kind of. And that observation and assumption is where I got off the rails some.

On that introductory float, I repeatedly put my fly into enticing seams, and pockets typical of successful practices in the past. My guide however, insisted with some frequency to swing a fly through a number of bottomless blue water runs whose agitated surface currents appeared uninviting and unsettled; water I definitely wasn't accustomed to fishing or drawn to. Briefly I would, but thinking I knew better I put my fly along every inviting bank I could reach, somewhat unsuccessfully.

It wasn’t till the end of the day when on an uninspiring cast into the middle of the river that I received my wakeup call. From the blue depths catapulted a brown approaching thirty inches that exploded on my fly like a tarpon busting bait. Stunned, I just watched in disbelief. These are the fish that are coveted on this impressionable river, and from the most violent of waters they will rise to take your fly. It was a game changing moment, and somewhat humbling to say the least.

Since that day, the Limay has shared its bounty often, but has also left me tired and drained. Guides in particular, who definitely earn their keep on this ditch when pursuing the river's big browns, will grind it out from run to run in an exhaustive effort to keep your flies in play through the Limay’s big water. But it's those moments when you and your guide are rewarded for your diligence and effort, that a sizable brown lifts from the bottom of these crystal clear currents trailing your fly like a sleuth, gently sipping, or often pouncing on the fly like a big cat on its prey. Regardless of the eat, the end result can lead to a trout of a lifetime, that is if you keep your cool and don’t pull the fly from its mouth.

Although Argentina's browns get all the attention and dominate Instagram posts, they aren’t the only noteworthy trout to be caught in the Patagonia region of Argentina. Give me an Argentine river rainbow sipping spinners or keying on one of the region's many prolific hatches, and I couldn’t be more content. If you're wade fishing on the Limay, or Collun Cura, and stick a rainbow, be prepared to do some exercising. Although most of these McCloud rainbows are sub-twenty inches, they can bust 4x tippets like it’s six. I remember one rainbow on the Limay when it was pushing over ten thousand CFS after it had removed my fly line and 20yds of backing from the reel disappearing upstream before breaking me off. If they’re not into your

backing, these rainbows will arm wrestle you relentlessly, often winning the contest. They are simply bad ass fish, and honestly they’re my favorite and shouldn’t be overlooked.

Argentina truly has some amazing trout. Equally impressive is Patagonia’s diversity of waters. From the smallest spring creek that you can jump across to a river like the Limay that will humble you with its size, there are many spectacular trout waters to choose from. These waters see little pressure. Most days it’s rare to see another boat or angler. Some say, it’s like Montana used to be one hundred years ago. I can only imagine. Given the pressure we have here in the west on our notable fisheries, the solace you’ll enjoy in Argentina only adds to the many qualities its fisheries offer.

Another aspect of Argentina that drew me to this country over other trout fishing countries in South America is its prolific hatches. Similar to what I experience here on many of my home waters, they have excellent hatches of both caddis and mayflies. In the heat of summer they also enjoy fishing big terrestrials. For the dry fly enthusiast who enjoys matching the hatch, it offers a great game. That said, when noses aren’t dimpling the waters surface fishing a nymph along a shallow shelf or riffle can be ridiculous. Without a doubt, regardless of how you like to fish, there are generous opportunities.

I know you're not supposed to talk about the “W”, but it exists here like few places in the world where I have fished.So, if you’re pondering a trip to Argentina to fish, let me see if I can put the “W” into perspective.

On the Limay that first year is when I got my first taste of this country's legendary wind. I was fishing with Ron, the “Mistro”. It started out to be a breathless blue sky day, yet it didn’t last long. Casting, and rowing soon took a quick reset as Mother Nature began to crank it up. After taking a needed break for lunch I stuck a really good brown on a Cicada; my first big Argentina trout. By the time Ron got the boat under control and anchored along the river's cobbled edge, the fish had me into the backing upstream well behind the boat. What line was visible was arced far over the bank, driven inland by the gale. The strain on the fish would eventually pull the brown into the shallow rocks, beaching the fish on its side, my line now strewn

among a variety of thorny bushes and over the endless cobbled shore. Ron and I quickly jumped from the skiff and scrambled to the stranded fish. Leaning down to remove the fly I gazed at one of the largest trout I’d ever landed on a fly. Righting it, I stared in amazement as I attempted to put into context what just happened. It was an unforgettable moment.

If you’re headed to Argentina it doesn’t blow everyday, but when the wind dials it up don’t be surprised. If you can keep in the game on those gusty days, you’ll often have some of your more memorable and best fishing.

Another aspect of these trips that needs to be put into perspective is the fishing. Meaning, it’s not always good. Like any fishing excursion there are a lot of variables that lead to good fishing. And in Argentina that also holds true. You can have bad days, even entire trips depending on the conditions, weather in particular. Also, not every trout you catch is a 20”er. Although I’ve experienced some poor fishing on my trips to Argentina, between the food, guides, scenery and Argentinian hospitality, you’ll still be rewarded with a memorable trip and yearn for more upon returning home.

Finally, another non-fishing part of the trip that makes this country attractive is its wildlife. The Red Stags that wander from the high country in the fall are as impressive as our Rocky Mountain Elk. Their bugle is far more robust than the high pitched wine of an Elk. A fact that the Argentines like to note and give us shit about. There are wild boar, Gunacos, big cats, Emu’s, and a host of beautiful raptors, including the Andean Condor. I’ve missed more than one hook set when being distracted by the country’s diverse scenery and wildlife, but like the spectacular fish found here, these aspects of Argentina make this place even more attractive.

Looking back, I am so grateful to the Coffee Crew for getting me to Argentina, otherwise I might have never gone, instead choosing to pursue fishes in warmer climates enjoying soothing ocean breezes instead of more time in trout country. It’s a long way to South America, but it's obviously a trip worth making. That is why I and others continue to return year after year. That initial one week trip is now two. And we just keep adding waters and days. I’ve also extended my travels into other South American countries, not fishing, but equally as enjoyable.

At the end of this year's adventure, I wasn’t ready to go home. I rarely am, bu this year in particular. The fishing on our twelfth visit was about as good as it gets. Although the fishing in this desolate and raw country is the attraction, it’s only a part of the memorable equation. What keeps us coming back are the Argentiaians and the friends we’ve made over the past twelve years of visiting this country. It also doesn’t suck that it’s one of the most beautiful and scenic countries to cast a fly in that you’ll ever experience. At least that’s what we’ve found, and if you ever decide to visit this part of the world I and those I travel with think you will as well.

If Argentina is on your bucket list of places to cast a fly, we can plan a trip for you, give you guidance, and generally help you get the most of what this country has to offer.  And it has a lot to offer.  So, if you're pondering heading to South America, especially to Argentina, put our twelve years of travel and fishing experience to good use.  That's what we're here for.